• Description

When you have selected the correct bowl for the job in hand - always put enough water in the bowl so that the Koi can move freely in the normal upright manner, then if necessary to keep the fish calm you will need to add some anaesthetic - just enough to gently put the Koi to sleep whilst you go to work on the infected, or damaged, area. It is always hard to advise people on how much anaesthetic to use. It depends on many things, mainly how big the fish to be treated is, the temperature of the water and how much water is in the bowl, also how healthy the fish is overall.... but it is important that you do not put too much anaesthetic in the bowl and the fish is almost unconscious as soon as it hits the water. It’s far better to add a measure of anaesthetic when the Koi has settled down in the bowl and see how the Koi reacts during the next few minutes and if the fish shows no sign of the effects of the anaesthetic then add just a little bit more. Eventually the Koi will lay on its side but at this stage the fish is not completely under the anaesthetic and should be left in the solution until the fish can be lifted just clear of the water in your open hand(s) and if the fish then struggles or flaps then place it back into the bowl. When it can be lifted out carefully lay the fish on a wet towel ready for treatment. If you are in any doubt, then we advise that you seek professional veterinary help and guidance ...

N.B. Anaesthetics’ are dangerous and should be handled with the utmost care and placed well out of children and pets reach when not in use - locked in a medical cabinet if possible. We can supply a completely safe and easy to use anaesthetic - see 'Medicine Chest' ...

N.B. Anaesthetics’ are dangerous and should be handled with the utmost care and placed well out of children and pets reach when not in use - locked in a medical cabinet if possible. We can supply a completely safe and easy to use anaesthetic - see 'Medicine Chest' ...


Again, there are many topical dressings, as such, that can be obtained from a good Koi Dealer who hopefully will give sound advice on their use. Many people use Malachite Green to place on the infected area with reasonably good results. Others may have their own particular brand of dressing that they already use and quite happy with them and we do have a good selection of such dressings and treatments - details of which are all contained within the subject surrounding 'Medications'  ... but for those of you who are just starting out in the world of Koi - or you just can't find the right Topical Dressing - then we offer what we consider to be the most effective dressing that we have found to date – Bio Wound

SALT as a Medication:

Salt is probably one of the oldest forms of pond and water treatment available, although please always use a propriety pond salt. Not some bought from the corner shop for cooking as this type of salt nearly always contains the ‘extras’ that your Koi don’t require. Salt added to any pond or tank should be at the rate of 1/2 ounce per UK gallon or (12.5g) 4.55 litres. Never ever add a salt dosage to the pond in one go, do it over a period of several days so that your fish become acclimatised. We know that a lot of pond keepers still use salt as a preventative treatment, but there are others.

A salt bath is often the cure for many minor problems, like gill infections, raised scales caused by a bacterial infection, ulcers on the body etc. and a salt bath cannot do any harm to the Koi providing you don't go over the top with the salt levels, remember salt is an irritant in fresh water fish so encourages the shedding of their natural mucus, depending on the severity of the problem we suggest a salt bath with a level of between 1.5 ounces per gallon to 2.5 ounces per gallon .. but as salt can act as an anaesthetic after a period of time, then we suggest that you do not place the Koi into the bowl and walk away - otherwise you may return to find it is too late to resuscitate the fish.

BUT if you are using salt as a medication bath then you MUST ensure that there is plenty of air supply in the water - using at least a single 2" air stone - oxygen is extremely important as salt in the water, especially at the higher doses depletes the oxygen levels very rapidly.

Also, NEVER use salt in the water if you have any 'Formalin' present in that water, which you may have been using for other treatments, you may have inadvertently gotten away with this - but salt reacts with the Formalin and causes stress related problems to the Koi under treatment. If you are unsure about using salt baths don’t attempt it without guidance, or if you decide to run your system with a low salt level, use the rule of 1/2" ounce per gallon of water.

It is possible to buy a Salt Tester for a few pounds, but a 'good' Salt Meter can cost you quite a lot of money - but a simple Salt Tester, which works like a hydrometer will give you the specific gravity.

Please have a look at these Salt Meters if you don't already have one - it will become an important part of your Medical Cabinet if choosing to run a salted system - just click on the Product details listed below to see further details on salt meter/testers.

Note: Water evaporates – salt does not, so be vigilant in warm weather as evaporation will make the water more salt dense.


As we mentioned earlier there are more modern preventative measures that you can now add to your pond, we have found that Genesyz is the best totally none chemical/medication additive around and stops harmful Aeromonas in their tracks! For more information on this ‘Prevention in a Bottle’

There are many other excellent medicinal treatments on the market today that will help your fish stay happy and healthy if you do happen to get a problem, all without the expense of veterinary bills.

Before we go on, a quick word on buying general treatments:

Firstly, may we stress a very important point to you .... Please do not go shopping and take home a bag full of various pond treatments that you may not need. Before you do go out to buy certain pond treatments make sure that you know what treatments you need and what you are going to treat the pond for.

It's no good treating a pond for a certain problem if that problem does not exist. It is vitally important that you identify the problem whether it’s a parasite or something else. It must be identified first – don’t listen too much to what your next-door neighbour is telling you - or your pal from up the road. It's your pond and it’s very rare that two ponds, even closely situated, could have the identical problem. So, ensure you identify your own problem and then, and only then obtain the treatments you require.

There is only one sure way of Identifying any parasite if they are not immediately visible to the naked eye - and that is by using a good quality microscope - more expense perhaps - but believe us any expenditure on a microscope could be well worth it in the end.